What are peptides and what are they used for in skincare products?
Cosmetic products with peptides in them are new and popular means to combat skin aging. But what are the pros and cons of these products? Read more about this in this blog.
WHAT ARE PEPTIDES?
When amino acids are linked together, they form chains called peptides. Many people wonder what the difference is between peptides and proteins . Both are made up of the same building blocks (amino acids), but the difference is in size. Peptides usually contain fifty or fewer amino acids. Proteins are made up of fifty or more amino acids and can be made from polypeptides (a long peptide chain). There are several types of peptides, and all are made up of different combinations of amino acids. These can be classified or categorized based on their source and function.
THE ROLE OF PEPTIDES IN AND ON YOUR SKIN
Proteins, and mainly collagen , are fundamental building blocks of human skin. Collagen homeostasis is a natural process in which our body produces collagen and breaks it down into peptides. Collagen is produced by fibroblasts and broken down by enzymes, namely matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) . When there is a good balance between the production and breakdown of collagen, the extracellular matrix ensures beautiful, firm skin. When more collagen is broken down than is produced, firmness decreases and wrinkles appear. Therefore, it is important to both stimulate collagen production and inhibit collagen breakdown .
Collagen production
When you are young, your body produces large amounts of collagen. However, as you age , the amount of collagen decreases . After the age of 20, your body produces an average of 1% less collagen peptides each year. Without collagen peptides, the skin does not remain intact and this results in the loss of firmness , the appearance of wrinkles and changes in skin texture .
Collagen production can be stimulated by means of peptides . Using collagen (as a protein) is not useful in skin care products because these molecules are too large to penetrate the stratum corneum (the top layer of your skin). Short peptides are small enough to penetrate and when applied topically and in the right 'carrier' (i.e. formulation) they can stimulate collagen production . There are different types of cosmetic peptides, each with their own mechanism of action. Commonly used peptides in skin care products are signal transduction peptides . When collagen is naturally broken down, the endogenous peptides that are formed act as a warning system that signals your body to produce more collagen. Signal transduction peptides mimic that natural warning system , causing the body to automatically produce more collagen.
Collagen breakdown
Accelerated collagen breakdown can be the result of an incorrect lifestyle (sun exposure, stress, etc.) and/or an incorrectly programmed genetic code . Mutations ('errors', defects) in MMP genes, such as collagenase (MMP-1) and stromelysin (MMP-3), cause the corresponding enzymes to be 'overactive' and therefore work faster than desired. They therefore break down collagen faster than it is produced. As a result , the skin loses its firmness and ages faster. The breakdown of collagen can be slowed down by adding a different type of peptide and/or active substances that reduce the effects of MMP enzymes to your daily skin care.
WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF USING PEPTIDES?
PROS
+ They help strengthen essential proteins in the skin, making peptides powerful anti-aging ingredients.
+ Different types of peptides can be combined in one cosmetic product : different types of peptides activate different biological processes. By combining them in one product, they are even more effective against skin aging.
CONS
- There is controversy as to whether or not peptides are still too large to penetrate the skin barrier (the 500 Dalton rule). According to this rule, a substance can only penetrate the skin if its molecular weight (MW) is less than 500 Daltons. If peptides are larger than 500 Daltons, they are probably too large to penetrate. However, the vector or carrier plays an important role in skin absorption. The use of certain liposomal formulations helps to make them better absorbed by the skin.
- If peptide formulations are not stored correctly, they can be vulnerable to degradation by light and air . Therefore, the packaging of the product is crucial to its effectiveness. In addition, it is preferable to apply peptides in the evening because your skin is more permeable at night, but also to avoid a reduction in effectiveness due to UV light.
- Certain types of peptides can cause irritation to certain skin types.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT PRODUCT
The most common (signal transduction) peptide in skin care products is palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (matrixyl), which is very effective against fine lines. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 stimulates the production of type I and type II collagen and fibronectin, which play an important role in the firmness and elasticity of the skin. It is not only important to stimulate collagen production, but also to prevent collagen breakdown by inhibiting the action of MMPs (enzymes that break down collagen).
Another important tip : don't choose a facial cleanser with peptides, because you will rinse it off almost immediately. Polypeptides will be much more effective in a cream or serum form, preferably applied at night. For good effectiveness, your product should also contain a high concentration of peptides. If you are wondering which product you need and which peptides are most effective for your skin , you can take a look at your DNA . From there we read information that may answer all your questions :)
60% is the basis of your skin and is determined by your DNA.
Your DNA makes you who you are. It not only tells you what care your skin needs, but also how sensitive your skin is to aging. Your DNA does not lie and remains unchanged.
Our DNA products focus on your specific needs that result from your DNA profile. We collect this information with a DNA test. You can order the DNA test separately or in a package with your products.
